Mediterranean Medley
By: Susheela Uhl, Contributing Editor
From Food Product Design Magazine
Table of Contents
Popular diversity
Constituting compounds
Formulation challenges
Health advantages
Mediterranean foods, ranging from familiar Italian pasta to the more exotic North African harissa, encompass all the varied foods of southern Europe, northern Africa and the Middle Eastern countries that surround the Mediterranean. Tasty, trendy and part of a healthful lifestyle, these foods depend on plenty of fruits, vegetables, nuts, olive oil, roasted flavors and spices to provide great variety and visual appeal. Additionally, Mediterranean foods are emerging as a foundation for promoting more healthful eating habits in the United States.
The Mediterranean diet was born in Crete, a Greek island in the Mediterranean, where the population has been found to be healthier and longer-lived than the meat-eating populations of other parts of Europe and United States. Their diet is low in meat protein, high in complex carbohydrates and includes greens and herbs, olive oil, fish and shellfish. This is, essentially, the diet classic to all regions surrounding the Mediterranean.
Traditional Mediterranean diet is characterized by plant-based foods such as grains, legumes, vegetables and nuts, with moderate consumption of fish and wine. Red meat, poultry and dairy products are taken in low to moderate levels. It is a vegetarian or semi-vegetarian diet, with emphasis on eating a variety of protein sources. Beans, lentils and nuts are given equal importance to fruits and vegetables.
Find/SVP's Packaged Facts (1996) predicts that in the United States, packaged Mediterranean foods, along with Pacific Rim and Caribbean foods, will increase at an annual growth rate of 7.1% over the next several years, reaching $383 million by 2001. Globally, Mediterranean foods are also a trendy item. Restaurants in Europe and southeast Asia serve Mediterranean foods as a welcome change to their local flavors.
Also, with increasing interest in authentic tastes, flavors from Mediterranean regions are beginning to appear everywhere. Olive oil, garlic, herbs, legumes, couscous, dried fruits and pimientos predominate many types of fusion cooking.
Mediterranean foods such as roasted garlic, rosemary and pesto sauce have flavors and ingredients that mainstream consumers can be comfortable with. They also have stronger, more exotic flavors and dishes, such as harissa, berbere or sumac, that will excite an adventurous consumer.
Each Mediterranean region has its own unique flavors. Northern Mediterranean cuisine is characterized by sweet herbs such as basil, thyme and rosemary, and by various wines. The west typically draws on tapas, bacalao, sofritos and saffron; while the east is characterized by olive oil, figs, sesame and yogurt. And last, but not least, cuisine in the southern region makes frequent use of tagines (stews), coriander, cayenne pepper and harissa.
While all Mediterranean foods are likely to continue growing in popularity because of their light sauces, healthy ingredients and cooking techniques, the greatest growth in Mediterranean foods will be the "other" dishes - those from the Middle East, Turkey and northern Africa (Ethiopia, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia). Because of consumers' growing interest in stronger and spicier notes, many of the ingredients from these regions will be used to create healthful meals or vegetarian entrees.
Mediterranean foods are popular because of their tremendous variety, which is derived from cultures as diverse as those of the Mediterranean French, the Syrian Christians and the Berbers of North Africa. Religion also adds to the variety and unique flavor differences found in Mediterranean foods. Muslims, Christians, Jews and Arabs have specific preferences and prohibitions for ingredients such as lamb, fish, beef or pork. Certain ingredients and preparation techniques are specific to different religious groups. Wine, widely used in southern French and Tuscan cooking, is not a halal item, so it would not be used by Muslims in their cooking. Likewise, pork is not eaten by Muslims or Jews.
There is great diversity not only within ingredients, but also within cooking styles, which vary among the Arabs, North Africans, Turks and southern Europeans. Preparation techniques such as marinating, grilling and braising create healthy, tasty side dishes with variety and excitement. Grilling with aromatic woods is one of the most popular ways of cooking, and it creates wonderful aromas and flavors with vegetables, meats and fish.
Mediterranean foods meet the growing demand for flavorful, healthy meals. They place importance on grains, legumes, seafood, fresh fruits and vegetables in the daily diet. Many of the fruits and vegetables provide not only nutrition, but variety, visual appeal and texture through their many flavors, colors, cuts and cooking techniques. Some of the popular seasoning blends are pesto, sofrito, tapanade, harissa, picada, rouille, romesco, salsa verde, aioli, tarator and different tomato sauces. Antipastos, mezzes and tapas using a variety of vegetables, fruits, breads and olive oil are a way of life with the Mediterraneans. Garlic and olive oil, popular items used with a variety of ingredients such as cayenne pepper, parsley, cumin, paprika, eggs, walnuts, mint and bread, are used to create unique marinades, sauces and dips.
Mediterranean cooking uses no intricate flavor combinations. The cooking is simple and rooted in the soil. The natural flavors and textures of the ingredients are kept intact using light sauces. The variety comes from grains, pastas, vegetables, fruits, nuts, herbs, cheeses, fish and olives. Mediterranean foods can be described as aromatic (fresh herbs such as mint, thyme, parsley, dill, basil, tarragon, chervil); peppery (cayenne, black pepper, clove and ginger); savory (coriander, cinnamon and caraway); nutty (almonds, pine nuts, pistachio and walnuts); and fruity (citrus, figs, pomegranates and nectarines). Spiced and preserved meats and fish, crystallized and dried fruits, pickled vegetables and olives are some of the other unique flavors.
Seafood makes up an integral part of the Mediterranean diet, thanks to the availability of many varieties of fish, including anchovies, grouper, sea bass, red mullet, mackerel, sardines, tuna, sole, whiting squid, shrimp, crab, snails, scallops, octopus and lobster. These seafood ingredients can be used in fresh, dried, grilled and pureed forms, or as stocks for a main entree and to flavor other dishes. Bouillabaise, zarzuela de pescado, bourride, soupe de poisson, tagine bel hout and pesce alla marinara are some of the popular fish dishes.
Meats include lamb and mutton, which are favored particularly in the Islamic regions, where eating pork is forbidden. These meats are seasoned and grilled as kebabs, a popular food in the Arab world. Pork and veal are popular in Spain and Italy. Chicken is a popular everyday food, while quail, pigeon, goose and duck are also commonly eaten.
Cheeses such as feta, mozzarella, Romano (pecorino or locatelli), gruyère, domiatti, manchego, ricotta, Asaigo and Parmesan are common in Mediterranean meals. They are used in salads, with vegetables, in desserts and as toppings for main entrees. Some of these are traditionally derived from sheep or goat's milk instead of cow's milk, giving them a distinctive, less bland flavor. Aging increases the cheese's sharpness. Hard, grana-type cheeses, such as Parmesan, Romano and aged Asaigo, are suitable for grating and can be used as toppings or flavorings in cooking. Soft, fresh cheeses are combined with olives, meat stews, ravioli fillings and vegetables.
Yogurt is used abundantly in Middle eastern and Northern African meals. It is served plain, mixed with fruits, or is drunk as a beverage, and is used as a cooking medium and thickener. Yogurts are also sauced over fried eggplant, mixed into a cucumber soup or served alongside a pilaf.
Rice is a staple in the Mediterranean diet. It is served plain, accompanied by stew or condiments, or as a one-dish meal such as paella, pilaf or risotto. Varieties include arborio, patna or Spanish-style. Each Mediterranean region has its own preference for rice characteristics, whether sticky, firm, soft, separate, fluffy or creamed. Middle Easterners enjoy the long-grain patna for their pilafs, while the French use fluffy Carolina for their stews, Italians prefer creamed arborio for their risottos, and the Spanish enjoy short- to medium-grain rices for their great paellas.
Wheat is found in a variety of forms in Mediterranean foods. For example, many shapes and sizes of pasta, gnocchi, couscous and bulgur are made from wheat.
Italian pasta is not the egg noodle of American cooking. It should derive its golden color from durum wheat, preferably semolina, a granular wheat flour. When cooked, it should maintain a firm, al dente texture. Durum wheat also gives the pasta a more nut- or wheat-like flavor. Pasta also comes in a wide variety of shapes - from acini di pepe (like a large couscous) to ziti (a medium tube) - that influence how it is served, as well as the cooking time. Gnocchi are made from a dough of cooked potatoes, flour and water and, occasionally, eggs.
Fresh pasta only keeps for about five days; modified-atmosphere packaging can extend this to over one month. If dried, it can have a shelf life of over a year. If frozen, the shelf life is approximately six months.
Cracked bulgur wheat comes in coarse or fine grinds, and is a staple of Turkey, Syria and Lebanon. It provides a crunchy note to tabbouleh, a Middle Eastern salad with mint, parsley, onions, tomatoes and olive oil.
Couscous, a popular dish from Morocco and Egypt, comes in many sizes designated as coarse, medium and fine grades. This precooked, dry pasta, made from durum wheat semolina, corn or pearl millet, is convenient to prepare, and when cooked with other ingredients, readily takes on their flavors. It can be complemented by vegetables, nuts, dates, raisins, harissa and many spices and herbs.
Couscous texture is similar to that of rice, and this grain can serve as a substitute for rice or breads. It can be eaten with "dry" curries, stews, fried chicken, meat kebabs, fish or seasoned vegetables. It can be served as a side dish or bowl meal, or be made into wonderful desserts with fruits and spices.
Since it cooks in minutes, it is becoming increasingly popular. In traditional Moroccan cooking, couscous is steamed - covered or uncovered - for 30 to 40 minutes in the aromatic vapors of a meaty stew or broth. Couscous can also be reconstituted with hot or boiling liquid. After cooking, couscous triples in size and becomes fluffy. It maintains particle integrity when sauce is added. The fine- and medium-grade couscous varieties are currently popular as side dishes, but recipes that use the coarser grades mixed with chopped fruits, raisins or vegetables will also grow in popularity. The coarse type is used in high-heat applications.
Paula Wolfert, author of "Mediterranean Cooking" and "Couscous and other Good Food from Morocco," points out that presentation and preparation vary along with the country. "In Tunisia," she says, couscous is "served very moist, with the sauce spooned on the couscous. In Morocco, sauce, meat and vegetables are served into a hole made in the center of a mound of couscous. In Algeria, the couscous, meat and sauce are served in individual dishes, which are then mixed together by the consumer at the meal table."
Breads hold a number of important roles in a Mediterranean meal. They are used to soak up sauces and scoop food, or as a base on which to spread olive oil, anchovy paste or tapenade, an aromatic olive and caper spread. Breads such as the long French baguette, the crusty round bread of Italy and the flat pita bread from the Middle East are often eaten with appetizers. Mediterraneans enjoy a variety of flat breads that are fermented, baked or fried. Injera, a traditional fermented flat bread made from a grain called tef and other grains, is popular in Ethiopia. It is eaten with side dishes of lentil salad, spicy lamb stew or sautéed beef with clarified butter. Other flat breads are foccacia, pizza crust and ciabatta from southern Europe; baladi, kisra and khobz el-daar from northern Africa; and pita, barbari, rogag and tanoor from the Middle East, Turkey and Iran.
Legumes such as broad beans, chickpeas, fava beans, flageolets, Borlotti beans, black-eyed peas, green and yellow split peas, red lentils and red kidney beans are the peasant foods of the Mediterranean. Preparing and seasoning them in a variety of ways creates different end products. They are used with grains, vegetables, nuts, fish and meat in salads, falafel, casseroles, stews and soups. Puréed beans are used to form panisse and hummus. Combining them with vegetables, rice, wheat and meat provides a complete meal, such as pasta e fagioli, cassoulet, fool medemmas and cholent. Beans are used ubiquitously in the Tuscany region of Italy for antipastos, spreads, minestrones and risottos, and are served along with fish and vegetables.
Chickpea flour is used in a hearty vegetable soup eaten when breaking the daily fasts of Ramadan, a time when Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset. In the Middle East, navy beans, great northern beans, chickpeas and black-eyed peas provide body and texture to dishes of rice, noodles, stews and salads. In Ethiopia, lentils are seasoned with berbere seasoning and eaten with injera. Falafel, a street food in Israel, Egypt and Lebanon, is made with white fava beans or chickpeas, spices and chile peppers, and is served at breakfast, lunch or supper. Hummus, made from puréed chickpeas and sesame, and bissara, a garlicky herb purée made from fava beans, are popular foods in the Middle East.
Olives are a must in Mediterranean cooking. They are often pickled and seasoned with lemon, vinegar, wine, garlic, fresh herbs or cayenne before they are eaten. Whether in pickled, braised, roasted or puréed form, olives season foods and act as a garnish. There are many olive types, in an assortment of different colors, shapes and sizes. Black kalamata, iconian and Nafplion olives from Greece; Spanish manzanilla and Spanish queen, and the Italian green and Moroccan types have become regular items on our grocery shelves. Olives are frequently served as appetizers with cheese, nuts, breads and chorizos. They can also be pitted, then stuffed with anchovies, almonds or capers. Many familiar Mediterranean items use olives, including tapenade, salad nicoise, pizzas, tagines and puttanesca sauce.
Olive oil is a healthy alternative to other cooking oils and salad oils. It also withstands high cooking temperatures and provides a golden, crisp exterior with a tender, juicy interior to foods fried in it. A light-colored, golden oil is preferable for frying and for whiter sauces, whereas the darker, greenish virgin oil can be used for more intensely flavored salad dressings. Virgin oil, the oil that comes from the first cold pressings, has the lowest acidity and comes from higher-quality olives.
Nuts such as walnuts, almonds, pistachios and pine nuts add crunchiness to poached fish, lamb patties or salads. They also thicken soups, are ground into flour for desserts, spreads and sauces, or are steamed with couscous. They are compatible with tomatoes, raisins, butter, lemon rind, chile peppers and many herbs.
Walnuts are thought to have originated in the Middle East, in ancient Persia. From there they spread to other Mediterranean countries and the rest of the world. They provide additional protein to the diet, approximately 15% by weight. Though they contain high levels of fat, nearly 70%, the majority of this is polyunsaturated (70%) and monounsaturated (18%).
Almonds are also believed to have originated in the Middle East, and were considered a valuable trading commodity in that region. They are slightly higher in protein than walnuts, at a level of over 19%. Their fat level approaches 50%, but most (66%) is monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (20%).
Pistachios grew wild in high desert regions from Syria to the Caucasus and Afghanistan, and were used as food as early as 7000 B.C. The pistachio was introduced to Italy from Syria early in the first century A.D., and its cultivation then spread to other Mediterranean countries. The greenish nutmeats contain 47% fat, 50% of which is monounsaturated and 32% polyunsaturated. Pistachios consist of approximately 20% protein. They also have high levels of potassium and iron.
Vegetables such as aubergine (eggplant), artichoke, asparagus, savoy cabbage, cardoon, courgette (zucchini), fennel, kohlrabi, leeks, mushrooms, pumpkin, potatoes, radicchio, and Swiss chard are found in many Mediterranean foods. Usually they are served raw, grilled, sautéed, deep-fried, marinated, baked or steamed. They are typically eaten at the beginning of a meal as antipasto or salad. Many variations can be created with mesclan, a fresh salad-leaf mixture of chicory, red and green lettuce, endive, dandelion, purslane and red cabbage. Cucumber-and-yogurt salad served as a mezze is a popular item in eastern Mediterranean cooking, and has many variations with garlic, mint or dill.
Eggplant - fried in oil, grilled, pickled, stuffed and baked, braised, or puréed - is a mainstay of Mediterranean cuisine. It is seasoned with garlic, lemon juice, cayenne, paprika, basil, mint, oregano or yogurt. It is commonly used in soups and dips, relishes, or as a Middle-Eastern ratatouille.
Grilling onions, eggplants and bell peppers gives added sweetness to these vegetables. Seasoned and grilled vegetarian entrees provide flavorful options to consumers who want to eat less meat.
Fruits are typically eaten after a meal. They are eaten as fresh, preserved in syrups, or added to ice cream, candy, tarts and sorbets. Commonly used fresh fruit varieties include citrus, grapes, apples, figs, nectarines, peaches, pears, melons, pomegranates, persimmons, quinces and strawberries. Dried fruits such as prunes, dates, apricots and raisins are mixed with nuts, spices and herbs and cooked with lamb, fish, pork or duck.
Figs - fresh or dried - come in black, purple, green or golden colors. They add sweetness and crunchiness to baked goods and are used as stuffings for lamb. According to the California Fig Industry Board, "Figs were revered by the Egyptians and Romans and were the first fruits to be dried and stored by humans. They are enjoyed on traditional Jewish holidays, such as Passover and Hanukkah. Nutritionally they are high in fiber, calcium, iron, potassium and polyphenols."
Consumers, naturally enough, want their food to taste like it has been made from scratch. Because they'd also prefer this food to be quickly and easily prepared, time is an important element in prepared foods. Couscous, beans, pasta and rice dishes must come in quick-cook forms, but retain their original tastes and textures. With couscous and rice, mouthfeel and texture are important. The right moisture in the precooked couscous is important for its acceptable finished texture when cooked. Proper holding temperatures and humidity during storage, as well as on steam tables, are crucial to rice and couscous texture.
Instant and frozen rices and other grains need to possess the optimum textures when cooked. Consumers want convenience, but not at the cost of flavor and texture losses. Rice is not just a source of carbohydrates, but also an important ingredient that provides textural sensations in a meal. Providing a finished rice product that lacks the familiar mouthfeel consumers are looking for is not likely to succeed. However, a finished arborio rice with a creamy texture and al dente center - made without a stove-top, continual-stirring procedure - would likely prove popular with consumers.
Mediterranean foods are known for their fresh and grilled vegetables. A variety of mixed, fresh-cut vegetables - combinations similar to mesclan, for example - can be packaged with seasonings. The challenge is providing different cuts of mildly flavored grilled vegetables that retain a firm texture when reheated. Most processes fall short in supplying this. Dehydrating vegetables results in a loss of crispness and fresh flavor upon rehydration. Providing toppings and seasonings that revive these vegetables could help provide appeal. Similarly, freezing most vegetables, especially the greens, causes them to lose their firm texture. Processing and packaging becomes especially important for meeting the demand for "fresh" products. And since many vegetables cook at different rates, products must be designed - through techniques such as sizing, using products with similar cook times and various levels of pre-cooking - to ensure all components have acceptable textures.
Young grape leaves, fig leaves or miloukia - used in Greek, Egyptian and Turkish cuisines to wrap meat, fish, quail, rice, condiments or vegetables - are usually available frozen or canned in ethnic grocery stores and mainstream supermarkets. Their textures, colors and flavors are altered from the fresh state, and, if brined, the leaves need to be soaked in water before they can be used. Providing packed leaves that retain more of their natural attributes would contribute greatly to their appeal.
For chefs or food manufacturers who desire to develop new ethnic foods, often there is a problem with availability of ingredients. Some ingredients, if available, are expensive or of inconsistent quality. The fact that they must be imported, and that they often cannot be found in large quantities, contributes to the cost. For example, olive oil is more expensive than soybean or other commodity cooking oils. Additionally, consistent and reliable sources for new ingredients are at times difficult to locate. Not all authentic ingredients are currently available in processed form - sumac and rose petals, for example. Food designers may need to substitute similar products or compounded flavors for some of these ingredients, and must be aware that this will sometimes change the flavors of their products.
The characteristics of the Mediterranean diet have been made into a dietary pyramid that illustrates the recommended relative amount of food to be eaten in each category. This pyramid, developed by Dun Gifford, president of Oldways Preservation & Exchange Trust, Cambridge, MA, "takes diets from two perspectives - health and agricultural sustainability. As an eating guide, it lists the foods required for a healthy way of living, based on the Mediterranean diet."
The recommended foods are rich in nutrients and phytochemicals that can help prevent cancer, heart disease and osteoporosis. Fruits, vegetables, potatoes, breads, grains, beans, nuts and seeds form the base of the pyramid, and olive oil replaces other fats as the principal cooking fat. Other recommendations include daily consumption of moderate amounts of cheese and yogurt and weekly consumption of low-to-moderate amounts of fish, eggs and poultry. Fresh fruit is suggested as a typical dessert, while red meat consumption is limited to a few times a month. Additionally, regular physical activity at a level that promotes a healthy weight and fitness level is recommended, along with moderate consumption of wine, normally with meals.
The Mediterranean diet does not focus on overall fat intake, but rather on low intake of saturated fats. Studies have shown that people who eat the highest levels of saturated fats have the highest instances of heart attacks, while those eating a Mediterranean diet have the lowest risk of heart disease. The Mediterranean diet incorporates a lot of fat, but it is primarily olive oil, and thus is low in saturated fats. According to studies, this emphasis on olive oil, which has a high level of monounsaturated fatty acid (MUFA), reduces the total serum cholesterol and LDL cholesterol, while raising the HDL. This contributes to the prevention of atherosclerosis and coronary heart disease.
Nuts may play an important role in reducing the risk of heart disease and other chronic diseases. In 1993, the New England Journal of Medicine demonstrated that substituting walnuts for a percentage of other fatty foods in the diet reduced serum cholesterol by more than 10% in the men who consumed this diet. Another study found that individuals who ate nuts only once a week had, on average, 25% less heart disease than non-nut eaters. Nutrients such as fiber and minerals such as copper, Vitamin E, zinc, phosphorus and magnesium are also present in nuts at a significant level.
Hypertension, a risk factor for cardiovascular difficulties, as well as for diabetes and thrombosis, can be prevented or treated using the Mediterranean diet, with its low saturated fatty acid (SFA) and high MUFA content, as well as its high levels of grains and vegetables. The lower rates of cancers in the Mediterranean areas appear, at least in part, to be a result of the consumption of fruits, vegetables and olive oil.
Olive-oil studies prompted the American Heart Association and the European Atherosclerosis Society to recommend that total fat intake should be reduced to 30% of total energy intake, with SFAs at 10%. Suggested PUFA intake is 7% to 10% of total fat intake, with the remaining 10% to 15% provided by MUFAs. Suggested cholesterol intake is below 300 mg/day. Such a diet reduces trans fatty-acids intake, derived from partially hydrogenated fats, thereby reducing the levels of LDL cholesterol and increasing the HDL cholesterol.
Manufacturers can develop tasty meals that have higher levels of fiber, more complex carbohydrates, higher levels of micronutrients, lower salt content and fewer meats by taking ideas from the Mediterranean diet. The heart of the Mediterranean diet is mainly vegetarian, such as pasta, vegetables, greens, cheeses and fruits. But it can be tailored for even non-vegetarians who want variety and a healthy way of eating, with little meat in their diets. Such foods, high in fiber, phytochemicals and minerals and low in SFA, can be used for tasty heart- and cancer-protective diets. Soon, consumers will depend on foods as natural methods of healing and disease prevention.
The increasing diversity and exposure to many cultures and varied ingredients is creating a demand for unique flavors. Americans want to indulge in great tasting foods that can also provide some comfort and health benefits. Multidimensional taste sensations and textures are becoming prominent in our meals. Visual appeal and flavor depth are creating a need for experimentation with new preparation techniques such as grilling, braising or smoking. Mediterranean foods meet all these demands with their variety, healthful ingredients and preparation techniques.
Susheela Uhl is president of Horizons, a Mamaroneck, NY-based food consulting firm. She develops products (ethnic and fusion), provides information on spices and other flavorings, and gives presentations exploring culinary trends and the factors contributing to their emergence.
• Photo: California Fig Advisory Board
• Photo: American Spice Trade Association
© 1999 by Weeks Publishing Company
Used with permission from Food Product Design Magazine
Weeks Publishing Company
3400 Dundee Rd. Suite #100
Northbrook, IL 60062
Phone: 847-559-0385
Fax: 847-559-0389